Carignan, it may be said, is the workhorse grape that could. Gruff and mass-producing, on the one hand, it is capable of real elegance if approached in the right way. Personality-wise, think of it as the Fedora-wearing ‘Uncle’ Tony who works at the car plant and is reputed to have ties to both the former Sicilian royal family and the mafia!
Carignan isn’t of Italian origin, but it did make its way there early on. It was probably introduced there from northwest Spain when the Crown of Aragon controlled parts of modern-day Spain, Italy and the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. Carignan’s obscurity is also a matter of perspective. In SA it makes up a miniscule 0.14% of plantings. In France, however, it is the second most planted varietal, after Merlot. (Until 1988 it was responsible for much of France’s wine lake but thereafter much was pulled out under EU incentives and it relinquished its most-planted status.)
Once mostly headed for jug wine production and as a colouring component in blends, Carignan has come into its own in recent years as a flagship varietal in Catalonia and the south of France. In Roussillon both white and pink mutations of the grape occur; respectively known as Carignan blanc and Carignan gris. Not unexpectedly for a widely-distributed grape it goes by several names, including Carinyena, Cariñena, Carignane, Samsó, Carignano, Bovale Grande and Mazuelo.
Carignan is a challenge for winemakers. Its robust tannins and high acidity make it a handful in the cellar. To tame its wild ways winemakers have been experimenting with adding some Cinsault, Grenache or Syrah. Some have also tried carbonic maceration. (Without getting technical, cab mac – as the Aussies call it – is a winemaking technique that results in particularly fruity wines with soft tannins.)
There is none of that at Ayama though. Their premier range Carignan is 100% unadulterated Carignan from bush vines planted in rocky soils. The grapes were picked at the end of March and the juice fermented in stainless steel tanks. From there it was transferred into 3-year-old 500 litre barrels for 24 months.
The result is a full-bodied and sumptuous wine with dark berry and floral aromas and notes of cocoa, orange peel and liquorice. Well-structured tannins and good acidity give it great ageing potential. (I’ve resolved to keep my spare bottle for at least 3 years… self-discipline allowing!)
Ideal pairings include roast meats, venison and hearty root vegetables. Uncle Tony and the car plant guys also like it with Osso Buco or Beef Braciole!
Alcohol 14% vol | Residual Sugar 3.2 g/l | Total Acid 5.8 g/l | PH 3.51
www.ayama.info | +27 (0)21 869 8313
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